Then, if you're still hungry-if you're not, wait a while and listen to the mariachi players who congregate here on weekends-head over to El Mercadito, that multi-level Latin indoor market also in the neighborhood. While it's not roasted on a trompo, the complexity of its marinade more than makes up for the flavor. (Pro tip: Use tortilla chips to salvage the remnants.) While you're in the area, walk five minutes to Restaurant Santa Cecilia, in Mariachi Plaza, for one oversized al pastor taco. Bite into it, and the savory concoction gushes out to meet you. If you visit Al & Bea's, the bean and cheese burrito is your requisite order: Smooth-as-lava refried beans, mixed with gooey cheddar cheese, and red or green chile are all wrapped in a tender flour tortilla. Specifically, it's located in the historically Latino neighborhood of Boyle Heights, where so much of the city's excellent Mexican food is to be found. ( Although there are some who assert that tortilla chips were invented in Los Angeles.) Regardless of your opinion, it's in this city that Al & Bea's has been alive and kicking for half a century. No other city has been such a historical stronghold of Mexican-American cuisine, with the possible exception of San Antonio-which is often credited with the invention of nachos, tortilla chips, and Fritos. Despite the merits of the massive and rice-filled Mission burrito, named for the San Francisco neighborhood where it was popularized in the 1960s, we have to go with a Los Angeles spot for the California pick.
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